Once ruined by a colossal earthquake and left deserted, Bussana Vecchia (Old Bussana) is a medieval town that has undergone a remarkable revival. It is located about 6 km east of Sanremo in the northwestern Italian region of Liguria, near the French border.
Constructed entirely from stone, this village traces its roots back to the 7th century. It flourished over the years, featuring a castle, a church, and stone houses – until that devastating 1887 earthquake that claimed hundreds of lives and rendered the town uninhabitable. The locals established a new settlement, which is sometimes called Bussana Nuova or New Bussana.
During the 1940s, Southern Italians attempted to move into Old Bussana, but they were removed by authorities who tore down staircases and rooftops to prevent further settlement. Two decades later, however, a Sicilian painter named Vanni Giuffrè overcame the odds and founded an international artist commune in the village.
The community faced challenges – from lack of electricity to conflicts with the government – but slowly restored various parts of the village. Today, artists and craftspeople reside there, embracing a minimalist way of life and work to maintain the village’s free-spirited, creative ambiance.
While certain areas of the village could use some restoration efforts, the creative energy is unmistakable. But in spite of its rough edges, Bussana Vecchia provides a serene and quiet escape, far removed from the typical tourist paths.
Bussana Vecchia is lined with small artisan workshops and studios, offering a glimpse into the artistic lives of its inhabitants. It’s small enough to explore in about an hour, with several cozy spots available for refreshments.
Many highlight the art exhibition located at the far end of the village, showcasing breathtaking paintings — particularly those depicting sea and sailing themes — by a gifted local artist.
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How To Get to Bussana Vecchia, Italy
Getting to Bussana Vecchia can be a bit tricky. The access road is narrow and allows two-way traffic, making it especially difficult for larger vehicles like SUVs. The path is quite steep, and you would need to walk primarily along a narrow, twisting, and abandoned road that barely accommodates two passing cars. Motorcycles or small cars are highly recommended.
Check out this guide on how to reach Bussana Vecchia depending on your starting point.
By Car
From Sanremo:
- Travel approximately 6–7 km east, which takes about 15 to 20 minutes.
- Head toward Arma di Taggia through Via Aurelia (SS1).
- Look for signs directing you to Bussana and then Bussana Vecchia.
Please note that Bussana Vecchia’s narrow and winding road is not suitable for larger vehicles and you may have to walk uphill (which takes between 10 and 15 minutes) as parking is scarce.
From Genoa or Nice (France):
- Driving via the A10/E80 autostrada takes about 1.5 to 2 hour, after which you take the exit for Arma di Taggia.
By Train + Taxi/Bus + Walk:
- Take a train to Taggia Arma or Sanremo (both located on the Genoa–Ventimiglia line).
From there:
- A taxi (which is recommended for convenience) will take you to Bussana Vecchia (about 15–20 minutes).
- Alternatively, you can take a bus to Bussana (the modern town), followed by a steep uphill walk (~2 km) to the historic village.
By Bike or Hike:
- Adventurous individuals often bike or hike from Bussana or Arma di Taggia. This route is scenic but quite steep and unshaded, so it’s advisable to carry water and wear comfortable footwear.
8 Best Things To Do in Bussana Vecchia, Italy
Bussana Vecchia is a hidden gem nestled in the hills overlooking the Italian Riviera. With its crumbling stone architecture, artistic vibe, and sweeping views of the Ligurian Sea, Bussana Vecchia provides a truly unique experience.
Whether you’re into art, history, or simply exploring cobbled alleys, here are some of the best things to do in Bussana Vecchia, Italy.
1. Meet local artists and explore their studios and galleries
Wander through the narrow streets of this medieval village to discover a variety of studios and galleries. This is also your chance to meet and engage with local artists who can offer insight into the artistic energy that has revitalized this enchanting hamlet.
2. Partake in cultural events
If you’re visiting Bussana Vecchia, don’t miss the opportunity to experience the village’s vibrant cultural events.
You’re in for a real treat during the warmer months, when the calendar fills with live music, theater performances, and art exhibitions.
Be sure to check out what’s happening at local venues like La Casaccia and Osteria degli Artisti, or browse the community bulletin boards around the village.
3. Stay at Casa La Barca or other artist-run accommodations
For a unique, authentic bohemian experience, stay at Casa La Barca.
Affectionately known as “everyone’s home,” Casa La Barca is a place where you can sleep, eat, and hang out with friends without spending a cent – in true hippie fashion. You simply show up and stay as long as you like. The host lives largely off donations and gifts from past guests who keep the spirit of the place alive.
You can also stay at one of the village’s bed-and-breakfasts or artist-run lodgings to fully engage with the artistic community and appreciate the peaceful environment.
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4. Indulge in local cuisine
Photo by villlamania via Wikimedia Commons
Bussana Vecchia isn’t just a feast for the eyes – it’s a true haven for food lovers. Its art-filled streets offer some unforgettable spots to indulge in Ligurian cuisine.
Start your culinary journey at Piazzetta Golosa, a cozy little café where you can find comfort in a slice of pizza. And if you’re in the mood for a plate of homemade pasta or a sweet or savory light snack, you’re in for a treat.
For lunch with a view, head to La Casaccia. Perched perfectly to give you sweeping vistas of the surrounding hills and sea, this Bussana Vecchia restaurant is known for its hearty meat dishes and genuinely friendly service.
And don’t miss Osteria degli Artisti for classic local fare like silky pasta and decadent tiramisu. This osteria is set in a beautiful, rustic corner of the village, providing an atmosphere that’s pure magic.
5. Tour the village’s historical sites
Wandering the charming, bohemian lanes of Bussana Vecchia, it’s easy to get swept up in the village’s artistic soul. But don’t miss the chance to dive into its rich history through its remarkable sites.
Start with the Chiesa di Sant’Egidio, a partially ruined church that stands as a powerful reminder of the village’s past. Visitors can admire its weathered façade and the still-intact bell tower that serves as an enduring symbol of resilience.
Next, discover the Giardino tra i Ruderi, a tranquil garden nestled among the ruins of old houses. Its flower-filled terraces, adorned with geraniums and native plants, offer peaceful surroundings and sweeping views of the landscape beyond.
Don’t miss the remains of a 12th-century castle once built by the Counts of Ventimiglia. Although much of the structure has vanished over time, the site still offers a fascinating glimpse into Bussana Vecchia’s medieval origins.
6. Check out the model railway
To make your visit to Bussana Vecchia even more memorable, don’t miss Italy’s largest model railway.
Spanning over 350 meters of tracks winding through miniature stations, tunnels, and bridges, this detailed setup brings tiny worlds to life. It showcases authentic scenes and sounds that reflect the appeal of actual railways.
7. Go hiking
The surrounding hills provide several trails, such as the historic mule path that links Bussana Vecchia to the sea. These routes wind through the lush scenery, allowing hikers to fully experience the natural splendor of the area.
8. Buy souvenirs
Local artists craft and sell a wide range of handmade items – ceramics, paintings, jewelry, and sculptures – that are easily found throughout the village. You may also take home age-old bonsai trees if you wish!
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